My name is Dr. Bu. I’m a dentist, also a surfer as my friend Mike introduced me a few posts back. I’ve been surfing for five years now but have been taking it serious for just two years. Serious for me means that I would be able to go out once a month for a surf trip that would usually last two to three days.
I still remember the very first time I tried surfing. It was a sunny morning during sem-break back in my school days (5 years ago). Like many surfers who started, I was escorted by a trainer and was pushed when an approaching wave is about to come. After several attempts I was able to pop up and ride a wave. It was an adrenaline pumping experience. It started there and the stoke was never taken off my blood stream.
What I love most about surfing is when going out the line-up (where surfers line up or wait to catch a wave), it’s like a journey you have to endure, paddling against the waves before reaching the line up where the ocean is calm. Then when you get to catch a wave, experience the speed that nature gives, have a long ride, and then the exhaustion from paddling just disappears. All you want to do is go back the line up and ride another wave.
I remember the feeling when I first saw a waist high 3-4 feet wave right in front of me, it looks really big compared to just watching it from the shore! Then the exhilaration that comes when you get to pass through the wave, awesome!
I’ve never tried skateboarding when I was younger, the first board sports I got into was surfing. The sad part about surfing is when you get back home and realized that it will take another 30 days before your next session. What I do is condition my body for the next trip. I tried going to the gym but realized that putting on too much muscle isn’t the right built for surfing. I got to customize a surf work out that works for me. It includes lifting few weights, running, swimming, indoboarding and the use of a power cord.
Just recently, a few months back, a friend of mine gave me a longboard (skateboard). That was the same longboard that I gave to Mike. I was so happy when I was able to ride that thing, first attempt to downhill I got a few wounds and scratches. I was not prepared for falling, since I was used to falling on water and not concrete. Now I’m riding a board called Boomerang by Earthwing Skateboards with Randall 180 Trucks and Orangatang Stimulus wheels. I got that board second hand but good as brand new, half the price of it! It’s really true that you sow what you reap, I gave my board and God gave me a good deal with my new one. Now every time I get bored waiting for a surf session I can always grab my board and enjoy a surfy feeling with it!